Style File - up-to-the-instant reports from fashion's front lines: New York, Milan, Paris, and beyond.
At Redux, The Kicks Are All New
Tim Hamilton shows his eponymous menswear in Paris these days, but the New York-based designer hasn’t left his hometown fans out in the cold—for the second season in a row, he’s showing his secondary collection, Tim Hamilton Redux, during New York fashion week. Redux began as a sort of greatest-hits collection, reissuing favorite staples from Hamilton’s eponymous line, but it’s since grown into an entity of its very own, one that skews younger and more street-influenced than the avant-garde main line. That’s not to say it’s not plenty avant in its own right. For the September 10 presentation, art star (and James Franco pal) Kalup Linzy will be DJ’ing and performing, and photographer Collier Schorr will debut a new video featuring the collection. As for accessories, the occasion will see the launch of Dana Lorenz’s first men’s pieces for Fenton/Fallon as well as a new footwear collaboration with Lacoste. “I wanted to work with the original Rene Lacoste shoe and give it a harder tone,” Hamilton says. “By adding a black finish and a high top, it appears to be a mesh—sneaker meets military shoe.” Cadets interested in a pair will be glad to know they’ll be sold with the Redux collection, hitting stores this January.
—Matthew Schneier
Photo: Steven Torres
Balenciaga Goes Back To The Future, What’s In The Cards For NYFW, Acne For Everybody, And More…
Balenciaga has revamped its Paris flagship. At the newly redone Avenue George V store, you’ll find more of Ghesquière’s (left) covetable collection, an ornate banister borrowed from the Balenciaga archives, and an enormous starburst clock—just don’t try to tell time by it, as it runs backwards. “Back to the future,” CEO Isabelle Guichot explains. [WWD]
Fashionista checked in with a psychic for NYFW predictions. What was in her crystal ball? Jewels at Marc, a solo reality show for Michael Kors, and good tidings for Jeffrey Monteiro at Bill Blass. Time will tell! (Except at Balenciaga in Paris, where it runs backwards.) [Fashionista]
Acne has launched a small capsule collection aimed at transvestites. Would it be wrong to say “fabulous”? [Vogue U.K.]
And Barneys’ Simon Doonan is leaving the New York Observer after ten years to pen a column for the online political mag Slate. [Fashionologie]
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Rabbit Season
What is it right now about fashion and pets? Cats, as we’ve seen time and again, are enjoying a moment, and according to Mandy Coon, who dropped by our office yesterday to preview her Spring ‘11 collection, bunnies are, too. Coon is known for her diaphanous, draped creations, which she’s showing for Spring in cotton, tulle, and burlap, but just as much, apparently, for her Bunny bag. Her Fall ‘10 collection had no sooner hit stores than the bunny—available in velvet ($405) and leather ($450)—had sold out. Reorders are already coming in and Colette, Assembly New York, Opening Ceremony, and Eva are all carrying the purse. Bunnies have already made an impact in London: BFA-winning accessory designer Katie Hillier uses one as her totem and creates rabbit silhouette necklaces in 18K gold and diamonds, and LOVE editrix Katie Grand’s affection for her rabbit, Clara, is well documented. Are cottontails poised to take America by storm? @BunnyBisous, we’re looking at you…
Photo: Courtesy of Mandy Coon
Is Silver The Color Of Spring 2011?
‘Tis the season to make jewelry. More and more of New York’s ready-to-wear designers—suffering, we’re sure, from an overabundance of free time—are adding custom or collaborative jewelry to their collections for the Spring ‘11 season. And if you’re a fan of silver, you’re in luck.
Jen Kao has collaborated in the past with other designers on jewelry for her namesake label, but this Spring, she steps out on her own, launching a collection of sterling silver bracelets, necklaces, earrings, and even a belt that pick up Spring’s romantic theme. “When I can be, I am always head-to-toe in jewelry, but it still always feels like there’s an essential piece that’s missing. I particularly love pieces that become such a part of you that you don’t ever want to take them off,” Kao says. “I wanted to design jewelry that speaks the same message as the clothing: personal, easy dramatics.” The weird, slightly supernatural romance of her current theme—”the youthful kismet of desert princes meeting zombie brides,” she says—was replicated in a gift to editors: a dangling pendant from the upcoming collection (above), complete with a hand-penned poem.
For his upcoming collection, Jeremy Laing worked with fellow Torontonian Jaime Sin on a few silver pieces as well. Sin’s main occupation is DJ—she’s done the music for Laing’s shows for the past few seasons—but she’s launching her line on Laing’s girls, some of who will be wearing the geometric pieces Sin and Laing co-designed (above).
And for Fashion’s Night Out, Rogan Gregory and Pamela Love put their heads together for some limited-edition jewels, too. The engraved lockets from the new ROGAN vs LOVE collection are inscribed with dark, allusive phrases—”What Have Your Eyes Done To Me?,” “Don’t Stop Love,” and “Don’t Cry” (above). They’ll be available for $435-475 on Fashion’s Night Out at the Black Carnival, the Bond Street block party co-hosted by Rogan, The Smile, and Oak.
—Matthew Schneier
Photos: Steven Torres (Jen Kao); Courtesy of Jeremy Laing; Courtesy of Rogan
They’ve Been Working On The Railroad
Opening Ceremony and Levi’s joined forces earlier this spring to launch a collection of pastel-hued cords, from cut-off shorts to overshirts, and a perfectly broken-in denim jacket. For the collaboration’s second wave, hitting stores next week, they looked back to Levi’s workwear heritage—and namely, its classic railroad stripe. Here’s your exclusive first look at the new Opening Ceremony 505 jean ($210), in eye-popping, graphic black-and-white stripes, and trucker jacket ($300), which brings together a few colors of denim with a shearling lining and a patch of that same railroad stripe. Look for it at Opening Ceremony, select Levi’s stores, and levis.com by next Friday.
Photos: Courtesy of Opening Ceremony
Alexis Bittar Hangs His Hat In L.A.—And His Two-Headed Elk, Too
Alexis Bittar, the recently crowned CFDA Accessory Designer of the Year, is heading west. The charming jeweler with the Lucite bent already has three Manhattan locations, but this month, he opens three more in California—one in San Francisco and two in Los Angeles. In between finalizing his Resort lookbook, manipulating new mohair knits, and putting the finishing touches on his fashion week collaboration, Bittar met with Style.com to talk L.A., elk heads, 80-year-olds, and what’s coming next.
—Alexis Brunswick
You’re about to have a strong presence in Los Angeles. Why L.A.? Why now?
When we looked at our business, were growing astronomically for the last, I want to say, five years—we’ve just been growing and growing and growing. And then when we looked at the country, and we looked at the West Coast. We were like, wait a minute, we have nothing really strong out there. And I think one of the things that helped my business in New York is creating a space that had my own environment and aesthetic. The other thing that was appealing on a business level is that it felt like if you were in a place of strength right now, this would be a time to expand. The economy is actually getting better and you can get a good rent at a time when it won’t be like this forever.
Do you expect the sales to be different in L.A. versus New York?
I’ve built the business on a ready-to-wear model. What will be interesting to see is how, between my three lines (Elements, Miss Havisham, and Lucite), what sells more. There are definitely subtle differences in what the consumer is buying right now between my Bleecker, Madison, and Soho stores [in New York].
How do you feel about being in your own store versus in your retail partners?
This way, you get to display it however you want. If you want to have a two-headed elk, you can have one. That was the most appealing, to be able to have a brand presence that really depicted the way that I see the line. And for our two L.A. stores, I just felt like there is such a huge world between Abbot Kinney (the store’s Venice location) and West Third (the store’s West Hollywood location), that why not have two distinct spaces?
The inevitable question: What are your plans for fashion week?
I’m working with Jason Wu. We designed a capsule collection of jewelry for his show. It will probably sell in our stores. I’d say it’s closest to the Miss Havisham line. It’s very clean, minimalistic, and has a seventies kind of feel to it.
What’s next for your line?
We’ve definitely been talking about doing fine jewelry for a while, and I think that is the most immediate thing that I want to get done. In terms of other extensions, like bags and shoes, it’s definitely something we want to get our hands into. But I want to make sure I’m with the right partner…the possibilities are limitless, but I just really want to make sure I’m with the right partners.
How does your line relate to all the other accessory lines out there?
We’re designing for a 20-year-old and an 80-year old—not just a size 2. There’s a general feeling that the line’s artistic, but that you also have to have balls to wear it. Don’t get me wrong, I love dressing models and I love the fantasy of fashion. But there’s a reality of fashion, too. I think moderate luxury is a comfortable space for us. But we’re still innovative and age-diverse.
Alexis Bittar opens September 15 at 8383 West Third St. and 1612 Abbot Kinney Blvd., L.A., www.alexisbittar.com.
Photo: Courtesy of Alexis Bittar
Who’s Up For The British Fashion Awards, Who Wants Klaus Kinski Front-Row, Who’s Rethinking Khakis, And More…
The British Fashion Award nominations are in! For designer of the year, Phoebe Philo (pictured) faces off with Christopher Kane and Erdem Moralioglu; for designer brand of the year, it’s Burberry and Mulberry vs. Pringle of Scotland and Victoria Beckham; and for menswear designer of the year, Christopher Bailey, Margaret Howell, Paul Smith, and the Savile Row label E. Tautz. Meanwhile, Nick Knight, Nicola Formichetti, and Rankin are all up for the Isabella Blow award for fashion creator—at least two of whom are Gaga besties. Now who will she root for? [WWD]
Richard Chai, who nabbed the CFDA Swarovski Award for emerging menswear designer last year, has announced he’ll debut his capsule collection for Original Penguin at his runway show this season. [WWD]
Steven Alan’s memories of Dockers center on “a 1970s math professor.” Let’s hope he chooses a different inspiration when he designs a few styles for the historic khaki producer. [NYT]
You probably aren’t washing your jeans as thoroughly and lovingly as Levi’s creative director Carl Chiara. But if you want to start, clear a few hours, a bathtub, and a sachet of potpourri, and follow these 14 or so simple directions. [WSJ]
For the latest issue of Interview, Balenciaga’s Nicolas Ghesquière sits down with legendary editor and style maven Polly Mellen, who’s full of great reminiscences about working in fashion in the era of Vreeland. Vreeland, the late Harper’s Bazaar and Vogue editrix, apparently had navy blue hair—chic! [Interview]
And Hint Mag puts several New York designers to the Mad Libs test. Read on to learn who wants Klaus Kinski in his front row, who wants the naked and blood-spattered cast of True Blood in his, and who aspires to “create a duplicate of himself, and then again and again until the entire world was Scott Sternbergs.” (One guess on that one.) [Hint Mag]
Photo: Courtesy of Celine
It’s True: Lanvin For H&M
Rumored yesterday, confirmed today, the latest designers to collaborate with H&M will be Lanvin’s Alber Elbaz and Lucas Ossendrijver. “I have said in the past that I would never do a mass-market collection, but what intrigued me was the idea of H&M going luxury rather than Lanvin going public. This has been an exceptional exercise, where two companies at opposite poles can work together because we share the same philosophy of bringing joy and beauty to men and women around the world,” Elbaz said in a release this morning. The collections—both womenswear and menswear—will hit 200 stores worldwide beginning on November 20 in the United States. The collection will be revealed in a short film released November 2. More as we get it.
Also, look out for Style.com’s own little collaboration with Elbaz, coming September 15. Stay tuned for details.
Photo: Courtesy of Lanvin
No Sherpa Required
Welcome to the lesser-known Soho Himalaya. It’s the Himalayan Shop that menswear designers Doug and Ben Burkman—known professionally as Burkman bros—have set up at NYC menswear mecca Odin. The brothers’ namesake collection is inspired by travel, especially to the farther-flung reaches of (former) empire, so when Odin owner Eddy Chai invited them to create a temporary installation for the store, they channeled Shimla, the Himalayan city that served as the summer capital of the nineteenth-century British Raj. There they’re offering select pieces from their Fall collection, including hiking-inspired pants, fine-gauge sweaters, and their standard jersey-lined check shirts in exclusive patterns. And slingshots, too. Hey—you never know.
The Himalayan Shop is open now at Odin, 199 Lafayette St., NYC, (212) 966-0026, www.odinnewyork.com.
On His High Horse
NOWNESS has produced a short film, directed by Matthew Donaldson and starring polo stud (and face of RL) Nacho Figueras. The video goes online on NOWNESS.com tomorrow; we’ve got a sneak peek at the action behind the scenes at the Hamptons shoot.
Photos: Elle Muliarchyk
Yea, Nay, Or Eh? Black Swan In Red
Natalie Portman is in Venice today, for the world premiere of her new film, the Darren Aronofsky-directed ballet drama, The Black Swan. Portman’s friends Kate and Laura Mulleavy of Rodarte designed the costumes for the flick, so three guesses who Natalie opted to wear to its premiere. The claret-hued silk tulle Rodarte gown—with a Swarovski crystal-encrusted bodice for extra shine—is pure, old Hollywood glamour; Rodarte is often known for moody, goth-tinged frocks, but this sweeping number looks borrowed from the closet of Veronica Lake. All to the good, we’d say. Portman finishes the look with an upswept chignon, sheer red footless stockings, and subtle T-strap heels. We’d call it a red-carpet win. How about you?
Update: The people have spoken—and corrected our error. Closer investigation reveals the tulle on Portman’s foot is part of her dress, not her stockings. Side note: Can somebody get on making sheer, red, footless stockings ASAP? We want a pair—enough even to hallucinate them.
Photo: Venturelli / Getty Images
Nicholas Kirkwood Goes Pop
Nicholas Kirkwood was in Hong Kong this week to launch his new space in On Pedder at Joyce, the city’s go-to accessories mecca. But the real excitement wasn’t about real estate—it was the sneak peek he gave of his latest collaboration, with the estate of eighties Pop artist Keith Haring.
“I watched this documentary called The Universe of Keith Haring, and though I know his style, I hadn’t seen the breadth of his work. I couldn’t stop thinking about how amazing and prolific he was and how great it would be to incorporate his graphics into my designs,” Kirkwood explained. “So I ended up approaching the Keith Haring Foundation. I had to really sell them the product, but I think they’re pretty happy with the end result.”
So are we—especially as this collection of 12 styles features the very first Nicholas Kirkwood ballerina flat, perfect for those who can’t quite pull off his androgynous lace-ups or are too practical to don his vertigo-inducing heels. The Keith Haring by Nicholas Kirkwood range will be available worldwide in February 2011, but for those who can’t wait, there’ll be a NK treat at London fashion week in September. Kirkwood will be launching an eight-day pop-up shop online, where his collaborations with Rodarte, Erdem, and Peter Pilotto will be available for pre-sale, with the promise of an early delivery to beat the shop floors. “I’m quite excited to see how sales works online,” the designer says of his first foray into direct sales. “I know a lot of other brands have done it successfully, so we’ll see how it goes.” We’re willing to bet—very, very well.
—Jennifer Cardenas
Photos: Courtesy of Nicholas Kirkwood
Ford’s Girls Get A Makeover, The Year’s Power Players Revealed, When Tati Met Marc, And More…
The Telegraph’s Hilary Alexander sits down with model-of-the-moment Tati Cotliar. Cotliar—who opened Marc Jacobs’ Fall ‘10 show—reveals MJ felt like they’d known each other before. A previous life, perhaps? Some girls have all the luck—twice. [Telegraph]
Show packages from the major modeling agencies are starting to arrive, including one that’s hotly debated among model-watchers: Paul Rowland’s first package since taking over at Ford. Karmen Pedaru, Tao Okamoto, Rose Cordero, Alana Zimmer, and the gorgeous newcomer Dafne Cejas (pictured) are done up in Mad Men-ish retro style. [Fashionologie]
Vanity Fair has released its Top 100 New Establishment list, including plenty of fashion types. LVMH chief Bernard Arnault is at number 6; PPR’s François-Henri Pinault is at 17; Karl Lagerfeld is at 39; and DVF and her husband, Barry Diller, share the number 40 spot. [WWD]
Phillip Lim’s Fall shoe collection—his largest yet—has hit stores and the Web. What was that we were saying about Wednesday being the prime online-shopping day? [FabSugar via Refinery29]
The Rumor Of The Morning: Lanvin For H&M?!
Usually, we don’t credit fashion-world rumors until they’re confirmed—in the age of online, it’s just too easy for any @Tom, @Dick, or @Harry to make them up as they go along. But H&M is clearly courting mystery with its new designer collaboration: Yesterday, the brand released a video teaser on its Web site, daring users to figure out its new collaborator. Facebook responses ran the gamut, but insiders think they’ve hit on the answer—Lanvin’s Alber Elbaz (that’s him peeking in at left). If so, it would be a major coup for the fast fashion retailer, and a chance for Lanvin to build on the success of its collection with Acne (which, admittedly, was sold at a contemporary, rather than fast-fashion, price point). Too good to be true? Just maybe. Only a few months ago, Elbaz told Style.com that he hadn’t considered a fast-fashion collaboration. But we’ll keep hoping until proven otherwise.
Photo: Courtesy of Lanvin
Wixson, Vixen
There are many models out there, but it’s hard to recall who’s made a bigger splash faster than the 16-year-old Kansan Lindsey Wixson, who charmed Miuccia Prada into two Miu Miu ad campaigns and an opening slot at Prada. (She’s tread the boards for Versace, Missoni, and Oscar de la Renta, too.) W dedicated a full two-page spread to her pillowy lips and gap teeth, even at a fashion moment when competition in that particular arena—think Lara Stone, Georgia May Jagger, and Ashley Smith—runs high. We’ll likely be seeing more of her on the New York runways in the coming weeks, but starting tomorrow, you can catch her at Sotheby’s, too. An all-Lindsey show, I Remain, You Desire, by photographer Gabrielle Revere, who shot Wixson for her Life magazine profile last year, runs through the 21st.
Photo: Gabrielle Revere
Who Wears Short Shorts?
According to our lensman-on-the-street, Tommy Ton, just about everybody. Tommy’s gone through his favorite shots from the summer and picked out his favorite trends, from the shortest of short shorts to seventies-style silk shirts (click here for some more of our favorites) and our favorite new neutral, leopard. Click here to browse the best of the summer looks, and keep an eye out for Tommy once New York fashion week kicks off, where he’ll be shooting the off-runway scene. You and your short shorts (weather permitting, of course) could end up right here.
Photo: Tommy Ton
The New-Old, Old-New, And The Old-Old At Istanbul’s Grand Bazaar
Istanbul’s Grand Bazaar is a shopper’s Shangri-la, but (surprise, surprise) all isn’t as it seems. On the hunt for jewelry, you quickly realize that the many black-around-the-edges estate pieces that catch your eye probably aren’t much older than a kindergartner. These new-old pieces hold little allure. Next!
On the advice of a couple of chic acquaintances, I sought out Sevan Bicakci, a jewelry designer whose pieces—mostly spectacularly bejeweled rings (above)—aren’t masquerading as anything but the mini works of art that they are. (Strictly speaking, Bicakci is located on a street radiating out of the bazaar, but he’s in the neighborhood.) Bicakci, 38, began apprenticing at the age of 12 and by now has developed techniques that boggle the mind, like micro-mosaic work—there may be thousands of tiny tiles on the side of a ring. Knowing that, it won’t surprise you that the workshop’s annual output is a minuscule, inhuman-level-of-attention-to-detail 400 pieces.
“We like to push limits and conquer new areas,” said Bicakci’s creative director, Emre Dilaver. (Bicakci, who looks a bit like a Turkish Alber Elbaz, doesn’t speak English.) But the beauty of these innovative pieces is how they plumb the city’s Roman, Byzantine, and Ottoman heritage as well as Greek mythology for inspiration. Each piece is an exquisite little history lesson. And while the rings appear purloined from the treasury of Emperor Justinian—the gold-haloed visage of his wife, Empress Theodora, adorns one specimen—they’re quite modern, certainly modern enough to sell at Barneys and Browns. These are happily the Old-New.
And within the Bazaar, there are true Old-Old treasures to be found, too. Try Mavi Kose, which has the added allure of historical significance—Grace Kelly is said to have shopped there. Located in the Old Bazaar section, Mavi Kose’s two stalls are presided over by the Yoda-like Mr. Diran Ozculcu. You can try on one of the antique diamond brooches and pendants, vintage watches, and more by applying to an aide, but to bargain and buy, you sit with the man himself, as I did when getting serious over a pair of rose-cut diamond earrings. I took the occasion to do a little fact-checking. Is it true that Grace Kelly shopped here? I asked. He nodded. One time or many times? The answer: many times. I bought the story and the jewels.
—Meenal Mistry
Moore No More, Baby Weinstein Makes Three, Lacoste’s New Hire, And More…
The Mayor of Venice has objected to Julianne Moore’s Bulgari ad being displayed in St. Mark’s Square. In the name of all that is anti-censorship—and pro-hot, hot Julianne Moore with some adorable baby lions—here it is above. [Racked]
Congratulations to Georgina Chapman—the Marchesa designer gave birth to her first child on Sunday night, a girl she and husband Harvey Weinstein have named India Pearl Weinstein. [Page Six]
A few months after Christophe Lemaire announced he’d decamp for Hermès, Lacoste has tapped his replacement: Felipe Oliveira Baptista, who’s been showing his womenswear on the Paris ready-to-wear runway since 2003. [WWD]
B excited! Brian Atwood has signed a deal with Jones New York to produce a more affordable line of footwear, B Brian Atwood, which will retail for between $200 and $550. [WWD]
Photo: Courtesy of Bulgari
First Look: A MAGAZINE Curated By Giambattista Valli
Some people dream of opening their own boutique. Some people dream about editing their own magazine. Giambattista Valli gets to do both: Valli (left) is the guest editor of issue No. 10 of A MAGAZINE, which will launch in tandem with the opening of his first store, in Paris this November. Following designers such as Yohji Yamamoto, Riccardo Tisci, and Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez of Proenza Schouler onto the Belgian pub’s masthead, Valli has conceived his issue of A MAGAZINE as an extended essay on the topic “What is beauty?” Work by Chiara Clemente, Nan Goldin, Louise Bourgeois, Richard Avedon, and the late Corinne Day will help him answer that question. The print magazine launches in late November, but impatient Valli fans can get a look at the online edition on October 10. To tide them over in the meantime, Valli prepared a special “scrapbook” collage of inspiration images, seen here (below) for the first time.
—Maya Singer
Photos: Kate Barry (Valli portrait); Courtesy of A MAGAZINE
Fresh From The Feed
Style.com’s Fashion Feed brings you the best of the news around the Web and on Twitter, and ranks the most-discussed designers, labels, models, and celebrities. In our weekly series, we call out the top five designers of the previous week (with our handy gloss on the hows and whys).
1. Marc Jacobs
(pictured; last week: 1)
Marc’s reign at the top continues. Despite a cranky neighbor who’s campaigning—via good, old-fashioned call-your-local-politico campaign—against his Bleecker Street shops, the Jacobs juggernaut rolls on apace.
2. Alexander Wang
(last week: 4)
Speaking of NYC storefront news, Alex Wang revealed the address of his first standalone store: 103 Grand Street in Soho, formerly home to New York’s Yohji Yamamoto boutique. Those are big shoes—Frejas, Allas, or what have you—to fill.
3. Vivienne Westwood (last week: N/A)
Dame Viv got the retrospective treatment at Selfridges this week. The store launched an exhibition of her shoes, from seventies clompers to the super-high platforms that brought down Naomi Campbell on the Westwood catwalk in 1993.
4. Alexander McQueen (last week: 5)
McQueen hasn’t been far from top-of-mind since his untimely death in February, but award shows are always good for proving exactly why—his edgy, elegant collection pieces. Anna Paquin wore an embellished black gown from his label’s Resort ‘11 collection (designed by McQueen’s protegee, Sarah Burton) and damn near walked away with best in show.
5. Carolina Herrera (last week: N/A)
Meanwhile, Carolina Herrera scored a few red-carpet wins at the Emmys, too. Modern Family’s Sofia Vergara and Glee’s Dianna Agron both wore dresses by the designer.
Photo: Richard Young / Startraks Photo
